Atlantis Hedgehogs

Hedgehog Care

It is important to have a good understanding of how to properly care for your pet hedgehog. You should read from more than one source and talk to knowledgeable individuals such as breeders or experienced organization members. There are many fine books available that explain hedgehog care in more details than this site.

Basic Information

     Hedgehogs are fairly easy to care for. The biggest issue in hedgehog care is sorting through the numerous opinions of what works best for your pet. All that I can tell you is what I have found to be the best solutions for keeping a healthy and long lived pet.

Housing
     Hedgehogs are rather simple to house. Their cage should be large enough for them to have ample room to run; I use cages that are about 2'x3'. Be sure that the enclosure does not have wire floors, or any kind of floor that allows for fecal drop through. Hedgehogs will get their legs or toes caught in any kind of hole and this could result in torn skin or broken limbs.
     Be wary of putting anything into the cage that will allow the hedgehog to climb. I prefer nest boxes that are round so that the hedgehog cannot climb on top of it. Water bottles with wire hangers are dangerous if mounted inside the cage: if the hedgehog tries to climb it, then it may get its foot hung up.
     What to use as bedding is an aspect that has dozens of differing views. It is important to not use anything with high amounts of natural aromatic oils, such as cedar (pine is considered to be safe, but is still not the best choice): these have been proven to have harmful effects on the liver function of various small animals who had prolonged exposure.
     What I have found to be the best choice for bedding is a mixture of Aspen shavings and Woody Pet pellets. There is little or no dust, the woody pets let you quickly identify when an area is wet, and there is virtually no odor. The Aspen shavings provide a soft bedding material and they are quite absorbent.

Food and Water
     Your hedgehog will need a regular supply of clean food and water. Food should be given in a shallow bowl. It is best to feed your hedgehog dry cat food or hedgehog food that has the first ingredient listed as some kind of meat, such as chicken: try and avoid as many fillers (corn) as possible. Be sure to avoid any foods that contain odd ingredients: there is a brand of hedgehog food that has raisins and seeds in it; don't waste your money on it. Hedgehogs are insectivores, they will approve of anything meat based. The occasional meal worm is an excellent treat and a good supplement. Below is a summarization of information from the book Hedgehog.
     In the wild a hedgehog's diet will consist of mostly insect larvae such as caterpillars. They will also eat beetles, earthworms, and snails. There is evidence to suggest that they eat quite a bit of vegetation (grass,roots,fruit,etc.): but most of the greens consumed by hedgehogs are not actually digested. Hedgehogs are "opportunistic" eaters and will eat many things just because it happened to walk in front of them-- or vice versa. In the wild, hedgehogs will also eat larger prey such as small amphibians, snakes, rodents, and even nesting birds or eggs (Reeve, pp 55-89).
     I have found that water bottles are better than bowls due to a hedgehog's instinct to turn over any objects that are in it's cage. It is very important that the water bottle be mounted in a way that does not allow the hedgehog to climb on it as this may lead to injury. It is also important that the bottle be mounted in a way that allows the hedgehog to drink comfortably from it: a hedgehog should not need to lift its head up or strain to reach the nozzle of the water bottle if it is mounted properly.
     If you would like to use a bowl then I would suggest that it be a heavy bowl that cannot be overturned; even better if there is some way to fasten it down. Using a water bowl does not usually work when also using wood shavings as a bedding since most hedgehogs will fill the bowl with the shavings while foraging around the base. The benefit of using a bowl is that it provides a more natural position for the hedgehog to drink.

Hedgehogs and Veterinarians

Just like any other animal it is possible for your hedgehog to become ill and need treatment. It can be dangerous to wait until you need a vet before you try to find one. You should always know of at least one vet in your area who can treat hedgehogs.
Due to how uncommon hedgehogs are in some areas not all vets will know how to treat them. I was fortunate enough to get a vet who used to be a hedgehog breeder. Obviously, not everyone will be so lucky. If you already have a vet whom you know and trust then talk with them to see if they would know how to treat a hedgehog if the need came up.

Central-African Hedgehogs and Hibernation

Central-African hedgehogs are from warm climates and cannot be cold. If the temperature drops below sixty degrees Fahrenheit then a hedgehog may begin to show some symptoms of hypothermia. Some symptoms are becoming lethargic, cool to the touch, and, if not corrected, death. If you notice that your hedgehog has become cool to the touch and seems to be having difficulties moving and/or has not been eating then immediately get it warmer and contact your vet. Some breeders refer to this as 'attempted hibernation': while some hedgehog species do hibernate, Atelerix albiventris does not.

Illnesses

     If you keep your hedgehog well fed, clean, and in dry conditions then there should rarely be problems concerning health. Look out for loose stool and/or signs of mites or other parasites; and watch your hedgehog for a sudden change in behavior: becoming lazy or aggressive-- suddenly becoming aggressive could mean that it is in pain; not to be confused with quilling, which occurs around six to ten weeks of age and often causes discomfort. Contact your vet if you believe that something might be wrong.
     Some large concerns are tumors, fatty liver disease, and Wobbly Hedgehog Syndrome (WHS).
     Tumors are usually noticeable as lumps under the skin. If you notice any such lumps then you should contact your vet. Be sure to ask about tumors for any sudden change in behavior. Tumors are a common problem for hedgehogs in the wild and captivity and the genetics that create this problem probably cannot be bred out with much ease, especially since most hedgehogs do not develop tumors until they are older: after they've reproduced.
     Fatty liver disease is a common problem for quite a few hedgehog. The easiest way to detect this is by looking for yellowing on the skin of the under-arms or belly. In later stages the hedgehog may become lazy and/or stop eating. The causes of fatty liver disease might be dietary or genetic. At this point I would be more inclined to believe that it is most often the result of the poor quality of food being fed to captive hedgehogs and lack of proper exercise.
     Wobbly Hedgehog Syndrome is believed to be a familial disorder (with a recessive mode of inheritance and a possibility of additional factors), and shows a strong correlation with an autoimmune disorder of the central nervous system called Degenerative Myelopathy (DM). The symptoms are progressive and start with wobbly motion in hind legs. The animal will then lose the ability to use its hind legs and will often cross them. From there the hedgehog might also lose function in the front limbs as the disease progresses. There are many other problems that can mimic WHS (commonly tumors in the spine or brain), ask your vet if you notice any signs.
     If a necropsy is being performed on a hedgehog that was believed to have WHS, then be sure that whoever performs the procedure is familiar with the signs of WHS; otherwise it might be overlooked. Many hedgehogs have some problems with fatty liver and tumors and this might make someone overlook the spinal damage.
Atlantis Hedgehogs
© 2006: Ryan N. Dickey All rights reserved.